Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

The Highlands are Iceland at its most surprising. This 11-hour trip reaches Landmannalaugar by four-wheel-drive vehicle, then brings you into a world of colored rhyolite mountains, black lava, steaming springs, and rough highland roads. I like the generous time at Landmannalaugar and the chance to pair a proper walk with a warm natural bath.

I also like the stop at Sigöldugljúfur, known as the Valley of Tears, because it adds a quieter and less expected sight to the day. The main drawback is the long, bumpy ride from Reykjavík. A few hours on gravel and F-roads is part of the adventure, but it can be tiring, noisy, and uncomfortable if you are prone to motion sickness.

Key points at a glance

• Landmannalaugar gets the time it deserves: You spend more than three hours in the area, with about two hours set aside for a guided walk and extra time for the hot pool or independent exploring.
• The Brennisteinsalda hike is the visual heart of the day: Black obsidian, steaming ground, and mineral-streaked rhyolite make this a very unusual walk.
• The natural pool is simple but perfectly timed: Bring swimwear and a towel so you can warm up after walking.
• The Valley of Tears is a strong bonus stop: Spring-fed streams, small waterfalls, clear pools, and colorful vegetation fill the Sigöldugljúfur canyon.
• The road is part of the experience: A capable four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential for the remote route, but expect bumps and a long day.
• Guides can make or break the outing: Guides such as Eddi, Tomasz, Sarah, Eddy, and Einar have been praised for safety, humor, geology, and local stories, though commentary quality may vary.

Why Landmannalaugar is worth the long ride

Landmannalaugar sits in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve in Iceland’s southern Highlands. It is not a quick roadside attraction. Reaching it means leaving the main routes and taking rougher roads that are open only during the suitable season and conditions.

That remoteness is exactly the point. You are not simply driving to another waterfall and stepping off the bus for ten minutes. You are entering a broad volcanic area shaped by lava, hot water, wind, and centuries of erosion. The scenery changes constantly, from open black desert to bright mineral-colored mountains.

The area’s colors come from rhyolite, a volcanic rock containing quartz and silica. Iron, sulphur, and other minerals add yellow, red, brown, and green shades to the slopes. Brennisteinsalda, whose name means Sulphur Wave, is one of the clearest examples.

I especially like the contrast between the mountains and the Laugahraun lava field. The lava formed during an eruption in 1477 and contains large stretches of dark obsidian. Its smooth, sharp-edged surface looks almost manufactured. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize the material as the real-world counterpart to dragon glass, but the geology is more interesting than the television connection.

The early start and the highland vehicle

Pickup is arranged from selected Reykjavík hotels and bus stops, including City Hall, Miðbakki, Snorrabraut, Höfðatorg, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Hilton Reykjavík Nordica, Storm Hotel, and several other central locations.

You should be ready at 7:30 AM. The vehicle may arrive as much as 30 minutes later depending on where your pickup point falls in the route, so do not wander away while waiting. Keep your phone switched on and connected to mobile data. If the driver cannot find you and cannot reach you, you could miss the departure.

The trip uses a comfortable Super Jeep or four-wheel-drive minibus with Wi-Fi and USB ports. Those features matter on an 11-hour outing, especially if you want to keep your phone charged for photographs and navigation. Still, comfort has limits. The vehicle has to handle rough gravel and F-roads, and the ride can be very bouncy.

I would avoid sitting at the very back if you have a choice. The rear seats may feel cramped, and engine noise can make it difficult to hear the guide. Motion sickness medicine is worth considering if rough roads affect you. The ride is not a flaw in the destination, but you should know what you are signing up for.

Hjálparfoss and the meaning of help

Hjálparfoss is usually the first scenic stop. This two-tiered waterfall drops into a broad pool framed by unusual basalt formations. It is a relatively short stop, but it gives you a good first taste of the volcanic geology ahead.

The name means Help’s Fall. The surrounding area, Hjálp, was important to people crossing Iceland’s difficult interior route between north and south. After the harsh Sprengisandur crossing, this greener area offered grass for horses. That small bit of historical context gives the waterfall more meaning than a quick photo stop would otherwise provide.

Do not expect a long walk here. The attraction is the waterfall, the basalt, and the change from the city to open country. The main hiking time comes later at Landmannalaugar.

Hiking through Laugahraun to Brennisteinsalda

At Landmannalaugar, the guide offers an approximately two-hour walk through the lava field toward Brennisteinsalda. The route passes through black obsidian and among the colorful rhyolite mountains. Small hot springs may send steam into the cool air near the Sulphur Wave.

The walk is described as manageable for beginners, and that matches the way the day is structured. You are not being asked to complete a demanding long-distance trek. The guide can offer alternatives, and you can choose to stay closer to the huts, explore another trail, or remain at the natural pool.

That said, beginner-friendly does not mean city-flat. Wind, rain, loose volcanic ground, and changing weather can make the same route feel easy or demanding. Wear proper hiking shoes, not casual sneakers. Pack rain gear, gloves, a hat, and warm outdoor clothing even if Reykjavík feels mild when you leave.

The best part of the walk is the variety underfoot. One moment you are moving across dark volcanic rock. Then the view opens toward a mountain streaked with mineral colors. Steam rises from the ground, and the whole setting feels slightly unreal without needing any fantasy story attached to it.

Your guide’s role matters here. Strong guides such as Einar, Eddi, Tomasz, Sarah, Eddy, and Ignacio have been praised for explaining the area, pacing the walk, helping with photographs, and keeping the group together. Some guides have also adjusted the route or allowed extra walking time when conditions and the group permitted it.

There is one important caveat. Commentary has not always been easy to hear. One account described a noisy vehicle and a headset that was not used effectively, while another noted a lack of explanation on the road and at Landmannalaugar. The overall quality can depend heavily on the individual guide and the sound system.

The natural hot pool after the walk

The bathing stop is one of the smartest parts of the schedule. After walking over rough lava and exposed ground, you can use the natural hot pool near the huts to warm up and rest.

This is not a polished spa. It is a simple outdoor pool in a dramatic setting, and that is its appeal. Bring a swimsuit and towel in your daypack so you do not have to unpack the main luggage. You may also want dry socks and a warm layer for afterward.

Time in the pool can feel short if the group is spread out or if someone takes a wrong turn. The schedule gives you time at Landmannalaugar, but the exact balance between walking, bathing, photographs, and independent exploring depends on the pace of the group.

You do not have to bathe. If you would rather continue walking, take photographs, or sit near the huts, that option is available within the allotted time. I would plan on the bath, though. It is a simple pleasure and gives the day a clear rhythm: rough road, volcanic walk, hot water, then more scenery.

Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears

Sigöldugljúfur is one of the most distinctive stops. The canyon has many small spring-fed streams, clear waterfalls, ponds, bright vegetation, and layered cliffs. Its nickname, the Valley of Tears, suits the way water appears to spill from the rock in many separate threads.

This stop is mainly for sightseeing and photographs rather than a long hike. You will likely spend less time here than at Landmannalaugar, but the visual reward is high. The clear blue water and green growth make a sharp contrast with the black volcanic ground elsewhere in the Highlands.

For some people, this canyon becomes the surprise favorite of the day. Landmannalaugar is the major reason to book, but Sigöldugljúfur makes the journey feel more complete. It gives you a different kind of Iceland: less about mountains and lava, more about water emerging from a strange, colorful canyon.

The stop also breaks up the return drive. After the walk and bath, another short viewpoint is welcome before the long trip back to Reykjavík.

How much driving should you expect?

The route includes roughly two hours of coach travel in each direction, with additional time on the highland roads and scenic stops. Since the full experience lasts 11 hours, you should treat this as a full-day expedition, not a relaxed half-day outing.

The vehicle’s four-wheel-drive capability makes the trip possible for people who do not have a suitable rental car. That is a major part of the value. Landmannalaugar is not a practical destination for an ordinary small rental vehicle, and driving the interior roads yourself requires confidence, preparation, and an appropriate vehicle.

The tradeoff is physical comfort. The gravel sections can be loud and jolting. Strong wind, heavy rain, traffic from animals, or a mechanical issue could also slow the day. One past outing even dealt with a flat tire, though a spare allowed the group to continue. These are remote roads, so flexibility is sensible.

Bring food and drinks with you because they are not included. A packed lunch, water, snacks, and something salty are useful on a day with walking and bathing. There are toilet stops, but it is still wise to use facilities when available.

Is $210 a fair price?

At $210 per person, this is not the cheapest day trip from Reykjavík. You are paying for a full day, a small-group format, Reykjavík pickup and drop-off, a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a local English-speaking guide, the guided hike, and access to several remote sights.

The value is strongest if you do not have a 4×4 rental car. Hiring the right vehicle, paying for fuel, navigating the highland roads, and handling changing conditions would add cost and responsibility. The tour also lets you focus on the scenery rather than the road.

The value is weaker if you dislike long drives or want a strenuous, extended hike. Much of the day is spent in the vehicle, and the guided walk is around two hours rather than a full trekking day. You are buying access and ease, not a wilderness expedition on foot.

I think the price is reasonable for someone with one free day who wants a safe introduction to Iceland’s interior. The Valley of Tears is also not included on every Landmannalaugar outing, which gives this route extra appeal.

Who will enjoy this day most?

This trip suits you if you want to see the Highlands without renting a 4×4, enjoy unusual geology, and like a mix of guided walking and free time. It works well for solo visitors too, since the small-group setting makes it easy to meet others without requiring a private booking.

The walk is suitable for many beginners, but you still need steady footing and the ability to walk outdoors in poor weather. The trip is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users.

You should think twice if you are very sensitive to bumpy roads, need a quiet vehicle, or want guaranteed sunshine. Icelandic weather can change quickly, and a fine Reykjavík morning does not promise calm conditions in the Highlands. Pack for rain and wind every time.

The tour is in English. Guides are often praised for humor and local detail, but the experience can vary if the microphone is hard to hear or the guide gives limited commentary. If learning about geology and history is your top priority, confirm that the guide will be leading the walking portion rather than simply pointing out the route.

Practical packing advice for this exact itinerary

Keep your daypack light, but include the things that will make the rough road and exposed walk easier:

• Hiking shoes with good grip
• Waterproof rain gear
• Warm outdoor layers
• Hat and gloves
• Swimsuit and towel
• Water, lunch, and snacks
• Camera or phone
• Portable battery if you plan to take many photographs

A towel is especially easy to forget because Reykjavík hotel routines make it feel unnecessary. Pack one anyway. You will also appreciate a dry layer after the hot pool.

For photographs, the best subjects are not only the big mountain views. Look for the obsidian textures, steam near Brennisteinsalda, the basalt shapes at Hjálparfoss, and the many small falls at Sigöldugljúfur.

Should you book it?

Book this trip if you want a broad, memorable introduction to Iceland’s Highlands and accept that the road is part of the price. The strongest reasons are the unusual colors at Landmannalaugar, the well-timed natural bath, and the Valley of Tears, which adds a beautiful change of pace.

Skip it if an 11-hour day with several hours of bouncing in a vehicle sounds miserable. You should also skip it if you are looking for a serious full-day hike rather than a guided walk followed by free time.

For most active visitors with one day to spare from Reykjavík, I would consider it a strong choice. Bring lunch, sit toward the front if possible, keep your phone available at pickup, and dress for four seasons. Do that, and the rough roads become part of the story rather than the thing you remember most.

FAQ

How long does the Landmannalaugar and Valley of Tears tour last?

The experience lasts 11 hours, including transportation from Reykjavík, scenic stops, the Landmannalaugar walk and bathing time, and the return journey.

What time is pickup in Reykjavík?

You should be ready at your selected pickup point at 7:30 AM. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive depending on the distance from the starting point.

Where can I be picked up in Reykjavík?

Pickup is available from selected hotels and bus stops, including City Hall, Miðbakki, Snorrabraut, Höfðatorg, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Hilton Reykjavík Nordica, Storm Hotel, ODDSSON hotel, Vesturbugt, Lækjargata, and the Culture House.

Is the hike suitable for beginners?

The approximately two-hour walk is described as beginner-friendly, and alternative routes are available. You still need hiking shoes and suitable clothing for wind, rain, and uneven volcanic ground.

Can I swim in a natural hot spring?

Yes. You can bathe in the natural pool at Landmannalaugar during the free time provided. Bring swimwear and a towel.

Is food included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so bring lunch, snacks, and water.

What language is the tour conducted in?

The live guide speaks English.

Is the tour suitable for children or wheelchair users?

The activity is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users.